Back in 1966, Alpamayo was elected “The World’s Most Beautiful Mountain” as result of a photo competition of the magazine „Alpinismus“. The ascent - even via the standard route, now being the French Direct Route - is technically difficult and demanding and therefore only recommended for experienced mountaineers. We suggest the ascent as a 6-day-tour.
From Huaraz we drive to Cashapampa, where our expedition starts, accompanied by mules helping us with our equipment. We share a part of our way with the famous Santa Cruz Trek. A first camp is set up in Llamacorral, before we reach Alpamayo base camp on day 2.
On an altitude of 4.300 m / 14,100 ft surrounded by spectacular summits we set up our base camp. Depending on the group and level of preparation we will decide here whether we make a direct ascent to Camp I or if we go for an additional "Morraine Camp" on approximately half way up.
Once we leave the ice wall before reaching the col behind us, we'll first see him with all his beauty - Alpamayo and his famous face, being home of French Direct Route. In between Alpamayo and Quitaraju we set up our camp on an altitude of approx. 5.300 m / 17,400 ft.
From Camp I to the summit does not seem too far, but first we have to descend and enter the icy wall of Alpamayo at Rimaya section, where we have 7 pitches of amazing ice climbing waiting for us. Inclination of the wall is from 60 to 90 degrees and it's getting steadily steeper. As you approach the summit emotions will overcome you.
Make sure to schedule enough time for this ascent and also take your time to be well recovered before starting this tour. Santa Cruz Valley / Cashapampa is an about 3-4 hour drive from Huaraz. During the tour it definitely pays off to have a reserve day for adding an additional camp, a rest day or just a reserve day in case of bad conditions. We'll be happy to design your individual plan according to your group's needs to maximize the chances to summit. So far we count with a 75 % summit hit rate.